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The use of aromatic spices, herbs and seasonings forms the
heart of Malay cooking. It is difficult to describe the subtle aromas and
intriguing undertones of foods so delicately spiced. Flavours range from
the pungency of hot chillis to the fragrance of nutmeg, cinnamon and
cloves. Ever since their arrival at the Cape, over 300 years ago, Malay
cooks have been masters of the art of seasoning, using a of allspice or
nutmeg for a delicate dish or grinding and roasting masala spices for
dishes such as breyani, denningvleis or atjar.
All spices, especially ground spices, diminish in flavour in time, so use
fresh, whole spices for the best results and store in
airtight containers in a cool, dry place as they tend to lose their
freshness if exposed too long to air, heat and moisture.
ALLSPICE
This sun-dried berry of the West Indian pimento tree seems to combine the
flavours of nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves, hence its name. It is used in the
preparation of many measles and is therefore a popular spice in curries,
soups and bredies. Ground allspice can also be used to flavour desserts,
cakes and biscuits.
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ANISEED
A seed similar in shape to that of jeera and barishap, but it is used
mainly in confectionery because of its warm, sweet, pungent flavour
similar to liquorice. Use sparingly, otherwise the flavour can be
overpowering. Star aniseed, so called because of its star shape, is rarely
used on its own but is ground and used in breyani masala and garam
masala.
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BARISHAP
The Malay name for fennel. Barishap seeds look very much like jeera but
are less elongated and fatter. The seeds are aromatic with a warm,
slightly bitter, aniseed flavour and are used in savoury dishes such as
chevra and fish dishes. Ground barishap is very often used in breyani
masala.
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BAY
LEAF
The bay leaf comes from the sweet bay or true laurel tree. It is aromatic
with a slightly bitter taste and is used in the preparation of pickled
fish, sosaties and denningvleis. Use sparingly and always discard whole
leaves before serving. For a more delicate flavour, some cooks prefer to
use lemon leaves instead of bay leaves.
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BORRIE
Borrie, also called turmeric, is a deep yellow, ground spice obtained from
the dried root of a plant related to ginger. It has a slightly bitter
taste and care should be taken not to exceed the amount recommended in a
recipe. Borrie is chiefly used in curries, pickled fish and sosaties and
for colouring yellow rice.
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CARDAMON
Known as elachi in the Indian community. The dried seed pods are available
in two varieties - green or white. It is best to buy cardamom seeds in
small quantities and to use as needed, since they quickly lose their
pungent aroma and distinctive flavour after they have been ground. The
aromatic dark brown seeds are generally left whole or are lightly crushed
for curries, breyanis and other rice dishes. Ground cardamom is also used
in the preparation of puddings, koesisters, biscuits and cakes.
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CHILLI
There are over 30 different varieties of chillis, some much sharper then
others. Unripe or green chillis are jucier, with more flavour, while ripe
red chillis are hotter. Pounded or liquidized chillis mixed with a little
oil and salt can be stored in sealed containers in a refrigerator for easy
use. Dried chillis should be torn into pieces and soaked in hot water for
10 minutes to soften. Chillis are a must for most curry dishes, chutneys and
sambals, so experiment for the best results.
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CHILLI
POWDER
Generally red in colour and made from dried red chillis. It is excellent
for foods that need a bit of colour and gives an extra bite that makes
quite a difference. Use instead of ground black pepper on chops and fish.
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CINNAMOM
The bark of a tropical tree which has a rich, strong, spicy aroma and a
delicious, sweet flavour. In Malay cooking, stick cinnamon is added to curries,
breyanis, vegetables, puddings and desserts. Ground cinnamon is
also used in baking, melktert and confectionery.
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CLOVES
Cloves are the dried, unopened buds of yet another tree indigenous to
Indonesia. They have a pronounced aroma and a strong, almost bitingly
sharp, spicy taste. Cloves are used to flavour many savoury and sweet
dishes, and the flavour blends well with other spices like cinnamon, all
spice and nutmeg. Ground cloves are stronger than whole ones, so take care
to use only a pinch or the flavour will be too overpowering.
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CURRY
LEAVES
These are available fresh or dried. Fresh ones are mainly used for
garnishing curry dishes while dried curry leaves are used in the
preparation of leaf masalas and for adding extra flavour to savouries such
as chevra.
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CURRY
POWDER
This mixture of borrie, whole coriander, jeera, ginger, fenugreek, black
peppercorns, chilli and mustard seeds is best when freshly ground. Many
commercial preparation, including curry paste, are also available, but
these do not have the flavour of fresh aromatic spices and tend to lend a
sameness to everything in which they are used. Malay people mostly use
masala in cooking and only use curry powder in sweet/sour dishes such as penang curry,
sosaties, bobotie and pickled fish.
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DHUNIA
This is the name given to fresh coriander leaves which are used as a
garnish in curry dishes or in the preparation of savouries such as
samoosas. Pounded dhunia leaves are also an important ingredient for some
chutneys. When crushed, dhunia leaves have an unmistakable pungent smell.
They can also be chopped and used like parsley.
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GARLIC
A popular herb and a member of the onion family which is often used fresh
in combination with fresh root ginger, although in fish dishes only garlic
is used. Garlic minced or liquidized with a little oil and salt will last
well in the refrigerator, is always ready to use and saves time.
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GINGER
Ginger, like nearly all spices, contains a volatile oil that gives it its
destinctive flavour which is aromatic, biting and slightly sweet. Fresh
ginger is indispensible for making curries and breyanis and mixed with
garlic makes an excellent meat tenderizer. Dried whole ginger is more
fibrous and less aromatic than fresh, but is more pungent. It can be
powdered easily and retains its spicy flavour for a long time. Ground
ginger is used in flavouring koesisters, konfyts, puddings and cakes.
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JEERA
The Malay and Indian term for cumin, a caraway-shaped seed that looks
like fennel but is slightly more bitter. When the seeds are ground, the
powder has a distinctive green colour. Jeera is an important ingredient
for making various masalas, so is always used in curries and breyanis.
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KOLJANDER
Also known as coriander, a seed which tastes sweet and aromatic and should
be roasted before being ground to bring out a more curry-like flavour.
Koljander seeds crushed together with jeera are widely used in curries and
other meat dishes.
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MASALA
Masala is a fragrant blend of spices used in curries, breyanis, atjars and
many other savoury dishes. There are many different varieties of masala
including wet and dry masala. There are special masalas for fish (with
mustard seeds), vegetables atjars, chutneys, breyanis and rice dishes. Buy
freshly ground masala from a spice shop or make your own as needed and use
the spices best suited to the particular dish you are preparing. You can
grind your spices with a simple pestle and mortar, a blender or a food
processor.
Atjar masala: A special mixture of spices including mustard seed,
chilli powder, borrie, ground methi and salt. Oil is added to make a thick
paste.
Breyani masala: Made with whole jeera seeds, koljander, barishap, bay
leaves, cardamom, cinnamon and star aniseed. Roast and grind before using.
Garam masala: Contains pounded fresh ginger, garlic, green chilli and
dhunia leaves.
Leaf masala: There are many varieties including red leaf
masala, which
has more ground chilli powder and is therefore hotter. Use for making meat
curry. Yellow masala is similar to red leaf masala except that it has less
chilli powder. Use for a milder curry.
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METHI
Also known as fenugreek. Mostly only the hard lentil-type seed is used.
Ground with other spices, it is used to make curry powder or methi which
is used to flavour some rice and vegetable dishes. This spice has an astringent
aroma and should be used sparingly.
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MINT
When chopped, this clean-tasting herb blends well with savoury fillings
for samoosas. Mint is very easy to grow and no garden, no matter how
small, need be without this most useful herb. Mint leaves are used to
great advantage for garnishing fresh fruit salads and punch.
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MUSTARD
SEED
A dark reddish-brown seed, slightly bigger than a poppy seed. Seafood
dishes, atjars and pickles are greatly enhanced when flavoured with
mustard seeds. Add whole mustard seeds to atjar masala for a more pungent
flavour.
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NAARTJIE
PEEL
This is one of the cheapest and most rewarding flavouring agents for
puddings, desserts and vegetables and it is a great pity that so few
people take the trouble to experiment with it nowadays. The peel is
lift out to dry in the sun, then ground into a powder and stored in an
airtight jar for later use. It blends well with cardamom and cinnamon.
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NUTMEG
A spice which comes from the same tree as mace. The seed of the fruit is
the nutmeg and the dried, reddish skin that covers the nutmeg is mace.
Grated or ground nut is frequently used as a garnish for boiled
vegetables, and as a flavouring in bredies and confectionery.
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ROSEWATER
A fragrant essence distilled from rose petals. Traditionally, Malay cooks
never used any essences, only rosewater was used to flavour boeber, a rich
milky drink, and puddings. Nowadays rosewater is also used in the making
of Turkish Delight. It is also an essential ingredient in rose syrup which
is used to flavour milkshakes and falooda jelly.
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SAFFRON
Saffron is by far the rarest and most expensive spice in the world. The
name is derived from the Arabic word Za'faran meaning yellow. The dark,
reddish-orange stamens of the wild crocus are used mainly for colouring
and flavouring rice dishes and puddings. It is one of the most wonderful
spices to use in breyani. To use, first infuse in hot water or add
directly to the meat marinade when making breyani.
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TAMARIND
This dark brown fruit of a tropical tree tastes very much like an
apricot/date mixture. Its sweet/sour flavour makes it an excellent
ingredient in sosaties and denningvleis. Children love to suck on the
fresh fruit.
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